222 Index A accommodation 15, 165-74, 212 activities 89, 120 Acueducto (Segovia) 160 air travel 202 airports 202 Alcázar (Segovia) 160 Alcázar (Toledo) 156 Alfonso XII 184 Alfonso XIII 184 Almodóvar, Pedro 188, 197 Amenábar, Alejandro 196 Antigua Estación de Atocha 107, 18 Antiguo Cuartel del Conde Duque 13, 125 Aranjuez 164 architecture 18-19, 194-5 art 105, 190-3 Ateneo Científico, Literario y Artístico de Madrid 80 Atlético de Madrid 38, 70, 107 ATMs 209 ?vila 162-4 B Banderas, Antonio 198 Bardem, Javier 196-7 Barrio de las Letras 81 Basílica de Nuestra Se?ora del Buen Consejo 66 Basílica de San Francisco El Grande 64, 64 Basílica de San Miguel 54 Basílica de San Vicente (?vila) 163 bathrooms 210 beer 32 Biblioteca Nacional & Museo del Libro 114 bicycle travel 109, 204 boating 109 bombings 2004 189 Bonaparte, Joseph 182 books 176 Bosch, Hieronymus 105, 104 bullfighting 38 bus travel 202, 204 business hours 28, 33, 206 C Caixa Forum 103 Campo del Moro 51 Carlos III 182 Casa de Campo 151 Casa del Labrador (Aranjuez) 164 Casa de las Siete Chimeneas 125 Casa de Lope de Vega 79 Cason del Buen Retiro 96 Catedral (?vila) 162 Catedral (Segovia) 161 Catedral (Toledo) 156 Catedral de Nuestra Se?ora de la Almudena 51 cell phones 14, 209-10 Cementerio de la Florida 148 Centro de Arte Reina Sofía 9, 101-2, 8, 101 Chamberí 25, 144-53, 238-9 chemists 208 children, travel with 23-4 Chinchón 164 chocolate con churros 26 Chueca 45, 121-43, 121, 254-5, 11 accommodation 173-4 drinking & nightlife 10, 122, 136-8 entertainment 138-9 food 122, 129-32 highlights 121-2 shopping 142-3 sights 123-6 transport 122 Circulo de Bellas Artes 80 classical music 37 climate 15, 20-2 climate change 203 Conde Duque 13 Congreso de los Diputados 80 Convento de la Encarnación 52 Convento de las Descalzas Reales 52 Convento de Santa Teresa (?vila) 163 Convento del Corpus Cristi 54 cooking courses 130 costs 14, 206-7 accommodation 167 food 28 courses 119, 130 credit cards 209 Cruz, Penélope 197-8 culture 176-7 currency 14 customs regulations 206 cycling 109, 204 D Dalí, Salvador 102, 191 dance 37-8 dangers, see safety de Lucía, Paco 199-200 Día del Orgullo de Gays, Lesbianas y Transexuales 21 disabilities, travellers with 210-11 drinking & nightlife 32-4, see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex, individual neighbourhoods drinks 32, 117 E economy 176-7 El Camarón 200 El Greco 96, 157, 190 El Monasterio de Santo Tomás (?vila) 162 El Rastro 66 El Retiro & the Art Museums 45, 90-109, 90, 246-7 accommodation 172 drinking & nightlife 109 food 91, 107-9 highlights 90-102 shopping 109 sights 92-109 transport 91 walks 108 electricity 207 emergencies 207, 214 entertainment 35-9, see also Entertainment subindex, individual neighbourhoods Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida 12, 146, 12, 146 Estación de Atocha 203 Estación de Chamartín 203 Estación de Chamberí 149 Estación Sur de Autobuses 203 Estadio Santiago Bernabéu 148 events 20-2 F Felipe II 180, 181 Felipe V 181 Fernando VII 183 Festimad 21 festivals 20-2 Fiestas de San Isidro Labrador 21, 22 film 38, 176, 196-8 flamenco 36, 199-200, 35 flea markets 61 food 19, 27-31, see also Eating subindex, individual neighbourhoods language 213-14, 218-19 shopping 40 football 36, 38, 70, 107, 148, 153 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 See also separate subindexes for: 5EATING P224 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P225 3ENTERTAINMENT P226 7 SHOPPING P226 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P227 4SLEEPING P227 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 222 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 222 10/01/2013 1:03:27 PM 10/01/2013 1:03:27 PM ?Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 223 223 Franco, Francisco 184-6 Fundación Juan March 114 G Galería Moriarty 125 Galván, Enrique Tierno 188 gay travellers 137, 207-8 Goya, Francisco de 92, 105, 113, 95, 105, 146 Gran Vía 79 Guernica 101, 105, 104 Guerra de la Independencia (War of Independence) 183 H health 208 history 178-89 holidays 209 Huertas 76-89, 76, 242-3 accommodation 169-71 drinking & nightlife 12, 77, 84-6 entertainment 86-7 food 77, 81-4 highlights 76-8 shopping 87-9 sights 78-80 sports & activities 89 transport 77 I Iglesia de San Andrés & Around 65 Iglesia de San Ginés 53 Iglesia de San Jerónimo El Real 103 Iglesia de San Nicolás de los Servitas 54 Iglesia de San Pedro El Viejo 66 Iglesia de Santo Tomé (Toledo) 157 Iglesia de Santo Tomé El Viejo (?vila) 163 Iglesia de Vera Cruz (Segovia) 161 immigration 189 insurance 208 internet access 208 itineraries 16-17 J jazz 36, 37 L La Casa Encendida 67 La Latina 45, 62-75, 62, 232 accommodation 169 drinking & nightlife 63, 71-3 entertainment 73-5 food 9, 63, 67-71 highlights 62-4 shopping 75 sights 64-7 transport 63 La Morería 66 la movida madrile?a 187-8, 191 La Noche en Blanco 21 language 212-19 Las Vistillas, Viaduct & Calle de Segovia 65 Lavapiés 45, 62-75, 62, 231 accommodation 169 drinking & nightlife 63, 71-3 entertainment 73-5 food 63, 67-71 highlights 62-4 shopping 75 sights 64-7 transport 63 lesbian travellers 137, 207-8 live music 36 local life 25-6 Los Cuatro Postes (?vila) 163 M Madrid Río 13 Malasa?a 25-6, 45, 121-43, 121, 124, 250-1 accommodation 172 drinking & nightlife 10, 122, 132 entertainment 138-9 food 122, 126-9 highlights 121-2 shopping 139-42 sights 123-6 transport 122 walks 124 Matadero Madrid 74 measures 206 medical services 208 metro travel 202, 204 Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz (Toledo) 157 Miró, Joan 102 mobile phones 14, 209-10 mojitos 26 Monasterio de la Encarnación (?vila) 162-3 Monasterio San Juan de los Reyes (Toledo) 156-7 money 14, 28, 167, 206-7, 208-9 Morente, Enrique 200 Muralla ?rabe 51 Murallas (?vila) 162 Museo al Aire Libre 114 Museo Arqueológico Nacional 114 Museo de América 148 Museo de Artes Decorativas 106 Museo de Cera 23, 126 Museo de Cerralbo 147 Museo de Falúas (Aranjuez) 164 Museo de Historia 123 Museo de Los Orígenes 65 Museo de Santa Cruz (Toledo) 157 Museo del Ferrocarril 23 Museo del Greco (Toledo) 157 Museo del Prado 7, 13, 92-6, 7, 92, 94-95, 184 Museo del Romanticismo 123 Museo Lázaro Galdiano 113 Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo 123 Museo Naval 106 Museo Sorolla 147 Museo Taurino 112, 112 Museo Thyssen- Bornemisza 11, 97-100, 99, 11 music 36-7 N Napoleon 182 newspapers 206 nightlife, see drinking & nightlife Northern Madrid 45, 144-53, 144, 238-9 accommodation 174 drinking & nightlife 145, 152 entertainment 152-3 food 145, 151 highlights 144-6 shopping 153 sights 146-9 transport 145 O opening hours 28, 33, 206 opera 37 P painting 190-3 Palacio Buenavista 125 Palacio de Comunicaciones 103 Palacio de Linares & Casa de América 114 Palacio de Liria 125 Palacio de Santa Cruz 54 Palacio Real 10, 49-50, 10, 49 Palacio Real (Aranjuez) 164 parks & gardens 19 Parque de Atracciones 24, 151, 23 Parque del Buen Retiro 9, 23, 106, 108, 108, 9, 25, 189 Parque del Oeste 149 Parque del Oeste 45, 144-53, 144, 240 accommodation 174 drinking & nightlife 145, 152 entertainment 152-3 food 145, 149-50 highlights 144-6 shopping 153 sights 146-9 transport 145 Petit Palace Posada del Peine 168 pharmacies 208 Picasso, Pablo 101, 105, 191, 104 pickpocketing 209 planning budgeting 14, 28, 206-7 children 23-4 festivals & events 20-2 itineraries 16-17 local life 25-6 Madrid basics 14-15 Madrid's neighbourhoods 42-5, 42 repeat visitors 13 travel seasons 15, 20-2 websites 14 Plaza de Espa?a 52 Plaza de la Cibeles 103, 107 Plaza de la Puerta del Sol 79 Plaza de la Villa 53 Plaza de Lavapiés 67 Plaza de Olavide 150 Plaza de Oriente 51 Plaza de Ramales 52 Plaza de San Martín (Segovia) 161 INDE X F- P 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 223 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 223 10/01/2013 1:03:40 PM 10/01/2013 1:03:40 PM 224 224 Plaza de Santa Ana 80 Plaza de Toros Monumental de Las Ventas 112, 112 Plaza del Neptuno 107 Plaza Mayor 7, 48, 7 Plaza Mayor (Chinchón) 164 Plaza Mayor (Segovia) 161 Plaza Mayor & Royal Madrid 45, 46-61, 46, 234-5 accommodation 168 drinking & nightlife 47, 58-9 entertainment 59 food 47, 54-8 highlights 46-50 shopping 47, 60-1 sights 48-54 transport 47 walks 55 Plaza Santa Ana 12, 12 plazas 18 population 177, 189 postal services 209 public holidays 209 Puerta de Alcalá 103 R radio 206 Real Academía de Bellas Artes de San Fernando 78 Real Fábrica de Tapices 107 Real Jardín Botánico 103 Real Madrid 36, 38, 107, 148, 153 religion 177 Reyes 20, 22 Río Manzanares 70 row boats 109 Rubens, Peter Paul 93, 94 S safety 209 Salamanca 45, 110-20, 110, 248 accommodation 172 drinking & nightlife 111, 117-18 entertainment 118 food 111, 115-17 highlights 110-13 shopping 111, 118-20 sights 112-14 sports & activities 120 transport 111 San Lorenzo de El Escorial 155 Santa Ana 76-89, 76, 242-3 accommodation 169-71 drinking & nightlife 77, 84-6 entertainment 86-7 food 77, 81-4 highlights 76-8 shopping 87-9 sights 78-80 sports & activities 89 transport 77 Santa Teresa 163 Segovia 160-1 shopping 40-1, 215, see also Shopping subindex, individual neighbourhoods Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca (Toledo) 157 soccer 36, 38, 70, 107, 148, 153 Sociedad General de Autores y Editores 123 Sol 45, 76-89, 76, 242-3 accommodation 169-71 drinking & nightlife 77, 84-6 entertainment 86-7 food 77, 81-4 highlights 76-8 shopping 87-9 sights 78-80 sports & activities 89 transport 77 Solana, José Gutiérrez 191 Sorolla, Joaquín 191 Spanish 212-19 Spanish Civil War 184-5 Suárez, Adolfo 186-7 Suma Flamenca 21 T tapas 9, 26, 29, 68, 8 taxes 41 taxis 203, 205 Teatro Real 52 Teleférico 149 telephone services 14, 209-10 Templo de Debod 147 theatre 36, 37, 38 theft 209 time 14, 210 tipping 28 Titian 96 toilets 210 Toledo 156-60, 158-9 tourist information 14, 210 tours 205 train travel 204 travel to Madrid 15, 202-4 travel within Madrid 15, 204-5 Trueba, Fernando 196 TV 206 V vacations 209 Van der Weyden, Rogier 93 vegetarian travellers 29-30 Velázquez, Diego Rodríguez de Silva y 93, 105, 190, 92, 94 visas 211 W walks Malasa?a 124 Old Madrid 55 Parque del Buen Retiro 108 Warner Brothers Movie World 24 weather 15, 20-2 websites 14 weights 206 wine 117 Z zarzuelas 37 Zoo Aquarium de Madrid 24, 151 Zurbarán, Francisco de 190 5EATING A A Dos Velas 128 A Tasca do Bacalhau Portugês 83 Albur 126 Alfileritos 24 (Toledo) 157-9 Algarabía 57 Alma Lusa 131 Almendro 13 71 Al-Mounia 116 B Baco y Beto 129 Bangkok Thai Restaurant 57 Bar Melo's 69 Bar Palentino 127, 128 Bazaar 129 Biotza 115 Bocaito 130 Bodega de la Ardosa 127, 150 Buenas y Santas 128 C Cacao Sampaka 127 Café de la Iberia (Chinchón) 164 Casa Alberto 81 Casa Aurelio (Toledo) 159 Casa Ciriaco 57 Casa Duque (Segovia) 161 Casa Hortensia 128 Casa José (Aranjuez) 164 Casa Julio 127 Casa Labra 83 Casa Lucas 70 Casa Lucio 68 Casa María 56 Casa Mingo 150 Casa Perico 126 Casa Revuelta 56 Cervecería 100 Montaditos 58 Charlotte 131 Comomelocomo 129 Con Dos Fogones 129 Conache 128 Costa Blanca Arrocería 150 Crêperie Ma Bretagne 127 D Diurno 127 E El Brillante 109 El Estragón 70 El Lateral 116 El Original 129 El Pedrusco 150 Ene Restaurante 69 Enotaberna del León de Oro 69 Estado Puro 109 F Fresc Co 132 G Gastromaquia 129 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 INDE X E AT I N G 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 224 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 224 10/01/2013 1:03:41 PM 10/01/2013 1:03:41 PM 225 225 H Hierbabuena (Toledo) 159 Home Burger Bar 128 Hostería Las Cancelas (?vila) 163 I Il Casone 150 J Janatomo 131 José Luis 116 Juana La Loca 68 K Kim Bu Mbu 131 Kitchen Stories 57 L La Anto?ita 69 La Buga del Lobo 69 La Camarilla 71 La Casa del Abuelo 82 La Chata 70 La Cocina de María Luisa 115 La Colonial de Goya 116 La Favorita 150 La Finca de Susana 82 La Galette 116 La Gloria de Montera 82 La Mordida 131 La Musa 126 La Musa Latina 67 La Paella de la Reina 130 La Perijila 69 La Piola 83 La Tasquita de Enfrente 126 La Terraza del Casino 81 La Trucha 83 Lamiak 69 Las Bravas 83 Las Tortillas de Gabino 149 Le Cabrera 129 Le Café 116 Le Pain Quotidien 128 Lhardy 82 Los Gatos 82 M Maceiras 83 Magasand 127 Maison Blanche 131 Malacatín 70 Mallorca 117 Mercado de San Antón 130 Mercado de San Miguel 54, 5 Mesón de Cándido (Segovia) 161 Mesón José María (Segovia) 161 Museo del Jamón 57 N Na?a Restaurante 68 P Peggy Sue's American Diner 128 Posada de la Fruta (?vila) 164 Posada de la Villa 68 Puerta 57 151 R Restaurante El Fogón Sefardí (Segovia) 161 Restaurante Estay 116 Restaurante Extremadura 131 Restaurante Integral Artemisa 83 Restaurante Julián de Tolosa 69 Restaurante Los Galayos 56 Restaurante Momo 131 Restaurante Reyes Católicos (?vila) 163-4 Restaurante Sandó 56 Restaurante Sobrino de Botín 56 Ribeira Do Mi?o 130 S Sagaretxe 150 Sanlúcar 70 Santceloni 151 Sergi Arola Gastro 149 Sidrería Vasca Zeraín 82 Sula Madrid 115 T Taberna de Conspiradores 71 Taberna del Alabardero 56 Taberna La Bola 57 Taberna Matritum 67 Taquería Mi Ciudad 56 Tepic 131 Txacolina 71 Txirimiri 68 U Un y 2 127 V Vi Cool 81 Vinos Gonzalez 83 Viridiana 107 Viva La Vida 71 W Wogaboo 132 Y Yerbabuena 57 Z Zalacaín 151 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE A Almonte 117 Anticafé 58 Antigua Casa ?ngel Sierra 137 Areia 137 B Bar Cock 136 Bar El 2D 135 Black & White 138 Bonanno 73 Bristol Bar 137 C Café Acuarela 137 Café Ajenjo 133 Café Belén 136 Café Comercial 132 Café de Mahón 132 Cafe de Oriente 58 Café de Ruiz 134 Café del Círculo de Bellas Artes 84 Café del Nuncio 72 Café del Real 58 Café del Soul 85 Café Isadora 134 Café Manuela 133 Café Pepe Botella 133 Café-Restaurante El Espejo 133 Cervecería Alemana 85 Chocolatería de San Ginés 58 Chocolatería Valor 59 Club 54 Studio 138 D Del Diego 136 Delic 72 Diurno 138 Dos Gardenias 85 E El Café de la Opera 59 El Café Sin Nombre 135 El Callejón 85 El Eucalipto 72 El Imperfecto 84 El Jardín Secreto 133 El Junco Jazz Club 136 El Naranja 134 El Parnasillo 134 El Rincón de Jerez 116 El Viajero 72 Enebro (Toledo) 159 G Gaudeamus Café 72 Gran Café de Gijón 133 J Jazz Bar 85 K Kapital 109 L La Bardemcilla 138 La Bodeguita de San Segundo (?vila) 164 La Inquilina 72 La Negra Tomasa 86 La Palmera 134 La Realidad 132 La Taberna After Work (?vila) 164 La Tasquina (Segovia) 161 La Terraza del Urban 84 La Venencia 84 La Vía Láctea 133 Laydown Rest Club 136 Le Cabrera 136 Liquid Madrid 138 Lolina Vintage Café 133 Lúpulo (Toledo) 160 M Macumba 152 Malaspina 86 Mamá Inés 137 INDE X D R I N K I N G & N I G H T L I F E 226 226 Mercado de la Reina Gin Club 137 Moloko 134 Morocco 135 Museo Chicote 136 N Nasti Club 135 O Oba Oba 59 Ojalá Awareness Club 134 P Picnic 135 Polyester 134 R Real Café Bernabéu 152 S Sala Bash/Ohm 135 Serrano 41 118 Siroco 135 Splash ?scar 136 Stella 84 Stop Madrid 138 Stromboli 137 T Taberna Alhambra 85 Taberna de Dolores 85 Taberna Tempranillo 72 Teatro Joy Eslava 58 The Geographic Club 117 The Roof 84 Tupperware 134 V Viva Madrid 86 W Why Not? 138 3 ENTERTAINMENT A Auditorio Nacional de Música 153 B BarCo 139 Bogui Jazz 139 C Café Berlin 59 Café Central 86 Café de Chinitas 59 Café La Palma 138 Cardamomo 87 Casa Patas 73, 35 Casa Pueblo 87 Cinesa Capitol 59 Clamores 152 ContraClub 73 Corral de la Morería 73 Costello Café & Niteclub 86 E El Búho Real 139 El Despertar 74 El Juglar 74 El Rincón del Arte Nuevo 74 F Fundación Juan March 118 G Galileo Galilei 152 H Honky Tonk 152 L La Boca del Lobo 87 La Escalera de Jacob 74 Las Carboneras 59 Las Tablas 59 Libertad 8 139 M Marula Café 73 Moby Dick 152 P Populart 87, 37 S Sala El Sol 86 Segundo Jazz 152 T Taboó 139 Teatro Alfil 139 Teatro Circo Price 74 Teatro de la Zarzuela 87 Teatro Espa?ol 87 Teatro Monumental 87 Teatro Pavón 74 Teatro Valle-Inclán 74 Teatros del Canal 152 V Villa Rosa 86 Z Zanzibar 139 7 SHOPPING A Adolfo Domínguez 141 Agatha Ruiz de la Prada 118 Aldaba 143 Alma de Ibérico 75 Alta?r 153 Antigua Casa Talavera 60 Antigüedades Hom 153 Art Market 61 Así 60 B Bazar Matey 153 Biblioketa 143 Bombonerías Santa 119 Burberry 120 C Cacao Sampaka 142 Calzados Cantero 153 Camper 118 Caramelos Paco 75 Cartier 120 Casa de Diego 87 Casa Hernanz 60 Chanel 120 Chocolalabelga 61 Convento del Corpus Cristi 61 Coorleone's Company 141 Cuarto de Juegos 119 Cuesta de Claudio Moyano Bookstalls 109 Curiosite 140 Custo Barcelona 140 D De Piedra 75 De Viaje 119 Del Hierro 75 Dior 120 Divina Providencia 140 Dolce & Gabbana 120 E Ekseption & Eks 119 El Arco Artesanía 60 El Corte Inglés 89 El Flamenco Vive 60 El Templo de Susu 141 El Tintero 143 Elisa Bracci 142 F Flamenco Chic 119 Flip 60 FNAC 61 Fransen et Lafite 60 Futuramic 143 G Gallery 118 Gil 88 Giorgio Armani 120 Gucci 120 H H.A.N.D. Clothes & Accessories 141 Helena Rohner 75 Hermès 120 I Isolée 142 J Jimmy Choo 120 J&J Books & Coffee 141 José Ramírez 88 Juan Alvarez 88 K Kling 140 L La Gramola 61 La Juguetería 143 La Librería 61 La Violeta 88 Lavinia 119 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 INDE X E N T E R TA I N M E N T 227 227 L'Habilleur 140 Librería Berkana 143 Loewe 142 Lomography 88 Louis Vuitton 120 Lurdes Bergada 142 M MacChinine 143 Manolo Blahnik 118 Mantequería Bravo 119 María Cabello 88 Maty 60 Mercadillo Marqués de Viana 61 Mercado de Fuencarral 140 Mercado de Monedas y Sellos 61 México 88 Muji 141 N National Geographic 140 Nest 140 O Ocho y Medio 153 Oriol Balaguer 118 O Pasajes Librería Internacional 153 Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero 142 Petra's International Bookshop 61 Poncelet 142 Popland 140 Purificación García 120 R Radio City Discos 141 Reserva y Cata 142 Retro City 141 S Salvador Bachiller 60 Santarrufina 89 Snapo 141 T Tienda Real Madrid 153 Tous 119 U Uno de 50 142 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Chi Spa 120 Hammam al-Andalus 89 Hammam Ayala 120 Lab Room Spa 120 4SLEEPING Adler Hotel 172 Albergue Juvenil 173 Antigua Posada del Pez 172 Apartasol 171 Casa Chueca 174 Casa de Madrid 168 Catalonia Las Cortes 171 Cat's Hostel 169 Chic & Basic Colors 170 Flat 5 Madrid 173 Hostal Acapulco 171 Hostal Adriano 170 Hostal América 173 Hostal Don Juan 173 Hostal Horizonte 169 Hostal La Zona 173 Hostal Luis XV 170 Hostal Madrid 168 Hostal San Lorenzo 173 Hostal Sardinero 171 Hotel Abalú 172 Hotel AC Santo Mauro 174 Hotel Alicia 170 Hotel de Las Letras 170 Hotel El Pasaje 171 Hotel Europa 171 Hotel Laura 168 Hotel Meninas 168 Hotel Miau 171 Hotel Mora 172 Hotel ?scar 173 Hotel Plaza Mayor 169 Hotel Preciados 168 Hotel Puerta América 174 Hotel Ritz 172 Hotel Senator 170 Hotel Urban 169 Los Amigos Sol Backpackers' Hostel 168 Mad Hostel 169 Mario Room Mate 168 Me by Melía 170 Petit Palace Art Gallery 172 Petit Palace Hotel Ducal 173 Posada del Dragón 169 Posada del León de Oro 169 Praktik Metropol 169 Suite Prado Hotel 171 Westin Palace 172 INDE X S P O R T S & AC T I V I T I E S 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 227 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 227 10/01/2013 1:03:42 PM 10/01/2013 1:03:42 PM SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don't want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. 220 Behind the Scenes OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Maite Araque Blazquez, Suzanne Brazier, Christian Cantos, José Carreras, Filippo Corvi, Dominic Cul- len, Bec Deacon, Clotilde Farah, Gregory Kavadias, Christian Shanti Mohammad, Chris Oates, Maurits Pino, Pablo Sanchez, Tanny (Catherine) Weisgram AUTHOR THANKS Anthony Ham During a decade of living in Madrid, I have been welcomed and assisted by many people whose lives and stories have become a treasured part of the fabric of my own. A huge thank you to the wise Dora Whitaker at Lonely Planet. It was my great fortune a week after arriving in Madrid to meet my wife and soulmate, Marina, who has made this city a true place of the heart. And to my daughters, Carlota and Valentina: truly you are Madrid's greatest gifts of all. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Madrid Metro Map ? Dise?o Raro S.L. 2010 Illustration p94 by Javier Zarracina. Cover photograph: buildings in old Madrid, Rudy Sulgan / Corbis ? 36-behind-the-scenes-mdr7.indd 220 36-behind-the-scenes-mdr7.indd 220 10/01/2013 12:53:37 PM 10/01/2013 12:53:37 PM 221 THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet's Madrid guidebook was researched and writ- ten by Anthony Ham. The previous three editions were also written by Anthony. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet's London office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Dora Whitaker Coordinating Editor Alison Ridgway Coordinating Cartographer Jeff Cameron Coordinating Layout Designer Adrian Blackburn Managing Editors Sasha Baskett, Barbara Delissen Managing Cartographers Anita Banh, Anthony Phelan Managing Layout Designer Jane Hart Assisting Editors Kate Daly, Carly Hall Assisting Cartographers Corey Hutchison, Alex Leung Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Claire Gibson & Rebecca Skinner Illustrator Javier Zarracina Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Shahara Ahmed, Dan Austin, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Tobias Gattineau, Jouve India, Asha Ioculari, Alison Lyall, Sophie Marozeau, Katie O'Connell, Trent Paton, Raphael Richards, Averil Robertson, Silvia Rosas, Amanda Sierp, Fiona Siseman, Kerrianne Southway, Gerard Walker, Danny Williams BEHIND THE SCENES 36-behind-the-scenes-mdr7.indd 221 36-behind-the-scenes-mdr7.indd 221 10/01/2013 12:53:40 PM 10/01/2013 12:53:40 PM ? Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it's fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don't upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - 'Do the right thing with our content.' ?Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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222 Index A accommodation 15, 165-74, 212 activities 89, 120 Acueducto (Segovia) 160 air travel 202 airports 202 Alcázar (Segovia) 160 Alcázar (Toledo) 156 Alfonso XII 184 Alfonso XIII 184 Almodóvar, Pedro 188, 197 Amenábar, Alejandro 196 Antigua Estación de Atocha 107, 18 Antiguo Cuartel del Conde Duque 13, 125 Aranjuez 164 architecture 18-19, 194-5 art 105, 190-3 Ateneo Científico, Literario y Artístico de Madrid 80 Atlético de Madrid 38, 70, 107 ATMs 209 ?vila 162-4 B Banderas, Antonio 198 Bardem, Javier 196-7 Barrio de las Letras 81 Basílica de Nuestra Se?ora del Buen Consejo 66 Basílica de San Francisco El Grande 64, 64 Basílica de San Miguel 54 Basílica de San Vicente (?vila) 163 bathrooms 210 beer 32 Biblioteca Nacional & Museo del Libro 114 bicycle travel 109, 204 boating 109 bombings 2004 189 Bonaparte, Joseph 182 books 176 Bosch, Hieronymus 105, 104 bullfighting 38 bus travel 202, 204 business hours 28, 33, 206 C Caixa Forum 103 Campo del Moro 51 Carlos III 182 Casa de Campo 151 Casa del Labrador (Aranjuez) 164 Casa de las Siete Chimeneas 125 Casa de Lope de Vega 79 Cason del Buen Retiro 96 Catedral (?vila) 162 Catedral (Segovia) 161 Catedral (Toledo) 156 Catedral de Nuestra Se?ora de la Almudena 51 cell phones 14, 209-10 Cementerio de la Florida 148 Centro de Arte Reina Sofía 9, 101-2, 8, 101 Chamberí 25, 144-53, 238-9 chemists 208 children, travel with 23-4 Chinchón 164 chocolate con churros 26 Chueca 45, 121-43, 121, 254-5, 11 accommodation 173-4 drinking & nightlife 10, 122, 136-8 entertainment 138-9 food 122, 129-32 highlights 121-2 shopping 142-3 sights 123-6 transport 122 Circulo de Bellas Artes 80 classical music 37 climate 15, 20-2 climate change 203 Conde Duque 13 Congreso de los Diputados 80 Convento de la Encarnación 52 Convento de las Descalzas Reales 52 Convento de Santa Teresa (?vila) 163 Convento del Corpus Cristi 54 cooking courses 130 costs 14, 206-7 accommodation 167 food 28 courses 119, 130 credit cards 209 Cruz, Penélope 197-8 culture 176-7 currency 14 customs regulations 206 cycling 109, 204 D Dalí, Salvador 102, 191 dance 37-8 dangers, see safety de Lucía, Paco 199-200 Día del Orgullo de Gays, Lesbianas y Transexuales 21 disabilities, travellers with 210-11 drinking & nightlife 32-4, see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex, individual neighbourhoods drinks 32, 117 E economy 176-7 El Camarón 200 El Greco 96, 157, 190 El Monasterio de Santo Tomás (?vila) 162 El Rastro 66 El Retiro & the Art Museums 45, 90-109, 90, 246-7 accommodation 172 drinking & nightlife 109 food 91, 107-9 highlights 90-102 shopping 109 sights 92-109 transport 91 walks 108 electricity 207 emergencies 207, 214 entertainment 35-9, see also Entertainment subindex, individual neighbourhoods Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida 12, 146, 12, 146 Estación de Atocha 203 Estación de Chamartín 203 Estación de Chamberí 149 Estación Sur de Autobuses 203 Estadio Santiago Bernabéu 148 events 20-2 F Felipe II 180, 181 Felipe V 181 Fernando VII 183 Festimad 21 festivals 20-2 Fiestas de San Isidro Labrador 21, 22 film 38, 176, 196-8 flamenco 36, 199-200, 35 flea markets 61 food 19, 27-31, see also Eating subindex, individual neighbourhoods language 213-14, 218-19 shopping 40 football 36, 38, 70, 107, 148, 153 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 See also separate subindexes for: 5EATING P224 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P225 3ENTERTAINMENT P226 7 SHOPPING P226 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P227 4SLEEPING P227 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 222 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 222 10/01/2013 1:03:27 PM 10/01/2013 1:03:27 PM ?Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 223 223 Franco, Francisco 184-6 Fundación Juan March 114 G Galería Moriarty 125 Galván, Enrique Tierno 188 gay travellers 137, 207-8 Goya, Francisco de 92, 105, 113, 95, 105, 146 Gran Vía 79 Guernica 101, 105, 104 Guerra de la Independencia (War of Independence) 183 H health 208 history 178-89 holidays 209 Huertas 76-89, 76, 242-3 accommodation 169-71 drinking & nightlife 12, 77, 84-6 entertainment 86-7 food 77, 81-4 highlights 76-8 shopping 87-9 sights 78-80 sports & activities 89 transport 77 I Iglesia de San Andrés & Around 65 Iglesia de San Ginés 53 Iglesia de San Jerónimo El Real 103 Iglesia de San Nicolás de los Servitas 54 Iglesia de San Pedro El Viejo 66 Iglesia de Santo Tomé (Toledo) 157 Iglesia de Santo Tomé El Viejo (?vila) 163 Iglesia de Vera Cruz (Segovia) 161 immigration 189 insurance 208 internet access 208 itineraries 16-17 J jazz 36, 37 L La Casa Encendida 67 La Latina 45, 62-75, 62, 232 accommodation 169 drinking & nightlife 63, 71-3 entertainment 73-5 food 9, 63, 67-71 highlights 62-4 shopping 75 sights 64-7 transport 63 La Morería 66 la movida madrile?a 187-8, 191 La Noche en Blanco 21 language 212-19 Las Vistillas, Viaduct & Calle de Segovia 65 Lavapiés 45, 62-75, 62, 231 accommodation 169 drinking & nightlife 63, 71-3 entertainment 73-5 food 63, 67-71 highlights 62-4 shopping 75 sights 64-7 transport 63 lesbian travellers 137, 207-8 live music 36 local life 25-6 Los Cuatro Postes (?vila) 163 M Madrid Río 13 Malasa?a 25-6, 45, 121-43, 121, 124, 250-1 accommodation 172 drinking & nightlife 10, 122, 132 entertainment 138-9 food 122, 126-9 highlights 121-2 shopping 139-42 sights 123-6 transport 122 walks 124 Matadero Madrid 74 measures 206 medical services 208 metro travel 202, 204 Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz (Toledo) 157 Miró, Joan 102 mobile phones 14, 209-10 mojitos 26 Monasterio de la Encarnación (?vila) 162-3 Monasterio San Juan de los Reyes (Toledo) 156-7 money 14, 28, 167, 206-7, 208-9 Morente, Enrique 200 Muralla ?rabe 51 Murallas (?vila) 162 Museo al Aire Libre 114 Museo Arqueológico Nacional 114 Museo de América 148 Museo de Artes Decorativas 106 Museo de Cera 23, 126 Museo de Cerralbo 147 Museo de Falúas (Aranjuez) 164 Museo de Historia 123 Museo de Los Orígenes 65 Museo de Santa Cruz (Toledo) 157 Museo del Ferrocarril 23 Museo del Greco (Toledo) 157 Museo del Prado 7, 13, 92-6, 7, 92, 94-95, 184 Museo del Romanticismo 123 Museo Lázaro Galdiano 113 Museo Municipal de Arte Contemporáneo 123 Museo Naval 106 Museo Sorolla 147 Museo Taurino 112, 112 Museo Thyssen- Bornemisza 11, 97-100, 99, 11 music 36-7 N Napoleon 182 newspapers 206 nightlife, see drinking & nightlife Northern Madrid 45, 144-53, 144, 238-9 accommodation 174 drinking & nightlife 145, 152 entertainment 152-3 food 145, 151 highlights 144-6 shopping 153 sights 146-9 transport 145 O opening hours 28, 33, 206 opera 37 P painting 190-3 Palacio Buenavista 125 Palacio de Comunicaciones 103 Palacio de Linares & Casa de América 114 Palacio de Liria 125 Palacio de Santa Cruz 54 Palacio Real 10, 49-50, 10, 49 Palacio Real (Aranjuez) 164 parks & gardens 19 Parque de Atracciones 24, 151, 23 Parque del Buen Retiro 9, 23, 106, 108, 108, 9, 25, 189 Parque del Oeste 149 Parque del Oeste 45, 144-53, 144, 240 accommodation 174 drinking & nightlife 145, 152 entertainment 152-3 food 145, 149-50 highlights 144-6 shopping 153 sights 146-9 transport 145 Petit Palace Posada del Peine 168 pharmacies 208 Picasso, Pablo 101, 105, 191, 104 pickpocketing 209 planning budgeting 14, 28, 206-7 children 23-4 festivals & events 20-2 itineraries 16-17 local life 25-6 Madrid basics 14-15 Madrid's neighbourhoods 42-5, 42 repeat visitors 13 travel seasons 15, 20-2 websites 14 Plaza de Espa?a 52 Plaza de la Cibeles 103, 107 Plaza de la Puerta del Sol 79 Plaza de la Villa 53 Plaza de Lavapiés 67 Plaza de Olavide 150 Plaza de Oriente 51 Plaza de Ramales 52 Plaza de San Martín (Segovia) 161 INDE X F- P 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 223 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 223 10/01/2013 1:03:40 PM 10/01/2013 1:03:40 PM 224 224 Plaza de Santa Ana 80 Plaza de Toros Monumental de Las Ventas 112, 112 Plaza del Neptuno 107 Plaza Mayor 7, 48, 7 Plaza Mayor (Chinchón) 164 Plaza Mayor (Segovia) 161 Plaza Mayor & Royal Madrid 45, 46-61, 46, 234-5 accommodation 168 drinking & nightlife 47, 58-9 entertainment 59 food 47, 54-8 highlights 46-50 shopping 47, 60-1 sights 48-54 transport 47 walks 55 Plaza Santa Ana 12, 12 plazas 18 population 177, 189 postal services 209 public holidays 209 Puerta de Alcalá 103 R radio 206 Real Academía de Bellas Artes de San Fernando 78 Real Fábrica de Tapices 107 Real Jardín Botánico 103 Real Madrid 36, 38, 107, 148, 153 religion 177 Reyes 20, 22 Río Manzanares 70 row boats 109 Rubens, Peter Paul 93, 94 S safety 209 Salamanca 45, 110-20, 110, 248 accommodation 172 drinking & nightlife 111, 117-18 entertainment 118 food 111, 115-17 highlights 110-13 shopping 111, 118-20 sights 112-14 sports & activities 120 transport 111 San Lorenzo de El Escorial 155 Santa Ana 76-89, 76, 242-3 accommodation 169-71 drinking & nightlife 77, 84-6 entertainment 86-7 food 77, 81-4 highlights 76-8 shopping 87-9 sights 78-80 sports & activities 89 transport 77 Santa Teresa 163 Segovia 160-1 shopping 40-1, 215, see also Shopping subindex, individual neighbourhoods Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca (Toledo) 157 soccer 36, 38, 70, 107, 148, 153 Sociedad General de Autores y Editores 123 Sol 45, 76-89, 76, 242-3 accommodation 169-71 drinking & nightlife 77, 84-6 entertainment 86-7 food 77, 81-4 highlights 76-8 shopping 87-9 sights 78-80 sports & activities 89 transport 77 Solana, José Gutiérrez 191 Sorolla, Joaquín 191 Spanish 212-19 Spanish Civil War 184-5 Suárez, Adolfo 186-7 Suma Flamenca 21 T tapas 9, 26, 29, 68, 8 taxes 41 taxis 203, 205 Teatro Real 52 Teleférico 149 telephone services 14, 209-10 Templo de Debod 147 theatre 36, 37, 38 theft 209 time 14, 210 tipping 28 Titian 96 toilets 210 Toledo 156-60, 158-9 tourist information 14, 210 tours 205 train travel 204 travel to Madrid 15, 202-4 travel within Madrid 15, 204-5 Trueba, Fernando 196 TV 206 V vacations 209 Van der Weyden, Rogier 93 vegetarian travellers 29-30 Velázquez, Diego Rodríguez de Silva y 93, 105, 190, 92, 94 visas 211 W walks Malasa?a 124 Old Madrid 55 Parque del Buen Retiro 108 Warner Brothers Movie World 24 weather 15, 20-2 websites 14 weights 206 wine 117 Z zarzuelas 37 Zoo Aquarium de Madrid 24, 151 Zurbarán, Francisco de 190 5EATING A A Dos Velas 128 A Tasca do Bacalhau Portugês 83 Albur 126 Alfileritos 24 (Toledo) 157-9 Algarabía 57 Alma Lusa 131 Almendro 13 71 Al-Mounia 116 B Baco y Beto 129 Bangkok Thai Restaurant 57 Bar Melo's 69 Bar Palentino 127, 128 Bazaar 129 Biotza 115 Bocaito 130 Bodega de la Ardosa 127, 150 Buenas y Santas 128 C Cacao Sampaka 127 Café de la Iberia (Chinchón) 164 Casa Alberto 81 Casa Aurelio (Toledo) 159 Casa Ciriaco 57 Casa Duque (Segovia) 161 Casa Hortensia 128 Casa José (Aranjuez) 164 Casa Julio 127 Casa Labra 83 Casa Lucas 70 Casa Lucio 68 Casa María 56 Casa Mingo 150 Casa Perico 126 Casa Revuelta 56 Cervecería 100 Montaditos 58 Charlotte 131 Comomelocomo 129 Con Dos Fogones 129 Conache 128 Costa Blanca Arrocería 150 Crêperie Ma Bretagne 127 D Diurno 127 E El Brillante 109 El Estragón 70 El Lateral 116 El Original 129 El Pedrusco 150 Ene Restaurante 69 Enotaberna del León de Oro 69 Estado Puro 109 F Fresc Co 132 G Gastromaquia 129 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 INDE X E AT I N G 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 224 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 224 10/01/2013 1:03:41 PM 10/01/2013 1:03:41 PM 225 225 H Hierbabuena (Toledo) 159 Home Burger Bar 128 Hostería Las Cancelas (?vila) 163 I Il Casone 150 J Janatomo 131 José Luis 116 Juana La Loca 68 K Kim Bu Mbu 131 Kitchen Stories 57 L La Anto?ita 69 La Buga del Lobo 69 La Camarilla 71 La Casa del Abuelo 82 La Chata 70 La Cocina de María Luisa 115 La Colonial de Goya 116 La Favorita 150 La Finca de Susana 82 La Galette 116 La Gloria de Montera 82 La Mordida 131 La Musa 126 La Musa Latina 67 La Paella de la Reina 130 La Perijila 69 La Piola 83 La Tasquita de Enfrente 126 La Terraza del Casino 81 La Trucha 83 Lamiak 69 Las Bravas 83 Las Tortillas de Gabino 149 Le Cabrera 129 Le Café 116 Le Pain Quotidien 128 Lhardy 82 Los Gatos 82 M Maceiras 83 Magasand 127 Maison Blanche 131 Malacatín 70 Mallorca 117 Mercado de San Antón 130 Mercado de San Miguel 54, 5 Mesón de Cándido (Segovia) 161 Mesón José María (Segovia) 161 Museo del Jamón 57 N Na?a Restaurante 68 P Peggy Sue's American Diner 128 Posada de la Fruta (?vila) 164 Posada de la Villa 68 Puerta 57 151 R Restaurante El Fogón Sefardí (Segovia) 161 Restaurante Estay 116 Restaurante Extremadura 131 Restaurante Integral Artemisa 83 Restaurante Julián de Tolosa 69 Restaurante Los Galayos 56 Restaurante Momo 131 Restaurante Reyes Católicos (?vila) 163-4 Restaurante Sandó 56 Restaurante Sobrino de Botín 56 Ribeira Do Mi?o 130 S Sagaretxe 150 Sanlúcar 70 Santceloni 151 Sergi Arola Gastro 149 Sidrería Vasca Zeraín 82 Sula Madrid 115 T Taberna de Conspiradores 71 Taberna del Alabardero 56 Taberna La Bola 57 Taberna Matritum 67 Taquería Mi Ciudad 56 Tepic 131 Txacolina 71 Txirimiri 68 U Un y 2 127 V Vi Cool 81 Vinos Gonzalez 83 Viridiana 107 Viva La Vida 71 W Wogaboo 132 Y Yerbabuena 57 Z Zalacaín 151 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE A Almonte 117 Anticafé 58 Antigua Casa ?ngel Sierra 137 Areia 137 B Bar Cock 136 Bar El 2D 135 Black & White 138 Bonanno 73 Bristol Bar 137 C Café Acuarela 137 Café Ajenjo 133 Café Belén 136 Café Comercial 132 Café de Mahón 132 Cafe de Oriente 58 Café de Ruiz 134 Café del Círculo de Bellas Artes 84 Café del Nuncio 72 Café del Real 58 Café del Soul 85 Café Isadora 134 Café Manuela 133 Café Pepe Botella 133 Café-Restaurante El Espejo 133 Cervecería Alemana 85 Chocolatería de San Ginés 58 Chocolatería Valor 59 Club 54 Studio 138 D Del Diego 136 Delic 72 Diurno 138 Dos Gardenias 85 E El Café de la Opera 59 El Café Sin Nombre 135 El Callejón 85 El Eucalipto 72 El Imperfecto 84 El Jardín Secreto 133 El Junco Jazz Club 136 El Naranja 134 El Parnasillo 134 El Rincón de Jerez 116 El Viajero 72 Enebro (Toledo) 159 G Gaudeamus Café 72 Gran Café de Gijón 133 J Jazz Bar 85 K Kapital 109 L La Bardemcilla 138 La Bodeguita de San Segundo (?vila) 164 La Inquilina 72 La Negra Tomasa 86 La Palmera 134 La Realidad 132 La Taberna After Work (?vila) 164 La Tasquina (Segovia) 161 La Terraza del Urban 84 La Venencia 84 La Vía Láctea 133 Laydown Rest Club 136 Le Cabrera 136 Liquid Madrid 138 Lolina Vintage Café 133 Lúpulo (Toledo) 160 M Macumba 152 Malaspina 86 Mamá Inés 137 INDE X D R I N K I N G & N I G H T L I F E 226 226 Mercado de la Reina Gin Club 137 Moloko 134 Morocco 135 Museo Chicote 136 N Nasti Club 135 O Oba Oba 59 Ojalá Awareness Club 134 P Picnic 135 Polyester 134 R Real Café Bernabéu 152 S Sala Bash/Ohm 135 Serrano 41 118 Siroco 135 Splash ?scar 136 Stella 84 Stop Madrid 138 Stromboli 137 T Taberna Alhambra 85 Taberna de Dolores 85 Taberna Tempranillo 72 Teatro Joy Eslava 58 The Geographic Club 117 The Roof 84 Tupperware 134 V Viva Madrid 86 W Why Not? 138 3 ENTERTAINMENT A Auditorio Nacional de Música 153 B BarCo 139 Bogui Jazz 139 C Café Berlin 59 Café Central 86 Café de Chinitas 59 Café La Palma 138 Cardamomo 87 Casa Patas 73, 35 Casa Pueblo 87 Cinesa Capitol 59 Clamores 152 ContraClub 73 Corral de la Morería 73 Costello Café & Niteclub 86 E El Búho Real 139 El Despertar 74 El Juglar 74 El Rincón del Arte Nuevo 74 F Fundación Juan March 118 G Galileo Galilei 152 H Honky Tonk 152 L La Boca del Lobo 87 La Escalera de Jacob 74 Las Carboneras 59 Las Tablas 59 Libertad 8 139 M Marula Café 73 Moby Dick 152 P Populart 87, 37 S Sala El Sol 86 Segundo Jazz 152 T Taboó 139 Teatro Alfil 139 Teatro Circo Price 74 Teatro de la Zarzuela 87 Teatro Espa?ol 87 Teatro Monumental 87 Teatro Pavón 74 Teatro Valle-Inclán 74 Teatros del Canal 152 V Villa Rosa 86 Z Zanzibar 139 7 SHOPPING A Adolfo Domínguez 141 Agatha Ruiz de la Prada 118 Aldaba 143 Alma de Ibérico 75 Alta?r 153 Antigua Casa Talavera 60 Antigüedades Hom 153 Art Market 61 Así 60 B Bazar Matey 153 Biblioketa 143 Bombonerías Santa 119 Burberry 120 C Cacao Sampaka 142 Calzados Cantero 153 Camper 118 Caramelos Paco 75 Cartier 120 Casa de Diego 87 Casa Hernanz 60 Chanel 120 Chocolalabelga 61 Convento del Corpus Cristi 61 Coorleone's Company 141 Cuarto de Juegos 119 Cuesta de Claudio Moyano Bookstalls 109 Curiosite 140 Custo Barcelona 140 D De Piedra 75 De Viaje 119 Del Hierro 75 Dior 120 Divina Providencia 140 Dolce & Gabbana 120 E Ekseption & Eks 119 El Arco Artesanía 60 El Corte Inglés 89 El Flamenco Vive 60 El Templo de Susu 141 El Tintero 143 Elisa Bracci 142 F Flamenco Chic 119 Flip 60 FNAC 61 Fransen et Lafite 60 Futuramic 143 G Gallery 118 Gil 88 Giorgio Armani 120 Gucci 120 H H.A.N.D. Clothes & Accessories 141 Helena Rohner 75 Hermès 120 I Isolée 142 J Jimmy Choo 120 J&J Books & Coffee 141 José Ramírez 88 Juan Alvarez 88 K Kling 140 L La Gramola 61 La Juguetería 143 La Librería 61 La Violeta 88 Lavinia 119 Sights 000 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 INDE X E N T E R TA I N M E N T 227 227 L'Habilleur 140 Librería Berkana 143 Loewe 142 Lomography 88 Louis Vuitton 120 Lurdes Bergada 142 M MacChinine 143 Manolo Blahnik 118 Mantequería Bravo 119 María Cabello 88 Maty 60 Mercadillo Marqués de Viana 61 Mercado de Fuencarral 140 Mercado de Monedas y Sellos 61 México 88 Muji 141 N National Geographic 140 Nest 140 O Ocho y Medio 153 Oriol Balaguer 118 O Pasajes Librería Internacional 153 Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero 142 Petra's International Bookshop 61 Poncelet 142 Popland 140 Purificación García 120 R Radio City Discos 141 Reserva y Cata 142 Retro City 141 S Salvador Bachiller 60 Santarrufina 89 Snapo 141 T Tienda Real Madrid 153 Tous 119 U Uno de 50 142 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Chi Spa 120 Hammam al-Andalus 89 Hammam Ayala 120 Lab Room Spa 120 4SLEEPING Adler Hotel 172 Albergue Juvenil 173 Antigua Posada del Pez 172 Apartasol 171 Casa Chueca 174 Casa de Madrid 168 Catalonia Las Cortes 171 Cat's Hostel 169 Chic & Basic Colors 170 Flat 5 Madrid 173 Hostal Acapulco 171 Hostal Adriano 170 Hostal América 173 Hostal Don Juan 173 Hostal Horizonte 169 Hostal La Zona 173 Hostal Luis XV 170 Hostal Madrid 168 Hostal San Lorenzo 173 Hostal Sardinero 171 Hotel Abalú 172 Hotel AC Santo Mauro 174 Hotel Alicia 170 Hotel de Las Letras 170 Hotel El Pasaje 171 Hotel Europa 171 Hotel Laura 168 Hotel Meninas 168 Hotel Miau 171 Hotel Mora 172 Hotel ?scar 173 Hotel Plaza Mayor 169 Hotel Preciados 168 Hotel Puerta América 174 Hotel Ritz 172 Hotel Senator 170 Hotel Urban 169 Los Amigos Sol Backpackers' Hostel 168 Mad Hostel 169 Mario Room Mate 168 Me by Melía 170 Petit Palace Art Gallery 172 Petit Palace Hotel Ducal 173 Posada del Dragón 169 Posada del León de Oro 169 Praktik Metropol 169 Suite Prado Hotel 171 Westin Palace 172 INDE X S P O R T S & AC T I V I T I E S 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 227 37-index-notes-mdr7.indd 227 10/01/2013 1:03:42 PM 10/01/2013 1:03:42 PM SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don't want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. 220 Behind the Scenes OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Maite Araque Blazquez, Suzanne Brazier, Christian Cantos, José Carreras, Filippo Corvi, Dominic Cul- len, Bec Deacon, Clotilde Farah, Gregory Kavadias, Christian Shanti Mohammad, Chris Oates, Maurits Pino, Pablo Sanchez, Tanny (Catherine) Weisgram AUTHOR THANKS Anthony Ham During a decade of living in Madrid, I have been welcomed and assisted by many people whose lives and stories have become a treasured part of the fabric of my own. A huge thank you to the wise Dora Whitaker at Lonely Planet. It was my great fortune a week after arriving in Madrid to meet my wife and soulmate, Marina, who has made this city a true place of the heart. And to my daughters, Carlota and Valentina: truly you are Madrid's greatest gifts of all. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Madrid Metro Map ? Dise?o Raro S.L. 2010 Illustration p94 by Javier Zarracina. Cover photograph: buildings in old Madrid, Rudy Sulgan / Corbis ? 36-behind-the-scenes-mdr7.indd 220 36-behind-the-scenes-mdr7.indd 220 10/01/2013 12:53:37 PM 10/01/2013 12:53:37 PM 221 THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet's Madrid guidebook was researched and writ- ten by Anthony Ham. The previous three editions were also written by Anthony. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet's London office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Dora Whitaker Coordinating Editor Alison Ridgway Coordinating Cartographer Jeff Cameron Coordinating Layout Designer Adrian Blackburn Managing Editors Sasha Baskett, Barbara Delissen Managing Cartographers Anita Banh, Anthony Phelan Managing Layout Designer Jane Hart Assisting Editors Kate Daly, Carly Hall Assisting Cartographers Corey Hutchison, Alex Leung Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Claire Gibson & Rebecca Skinner Illustrator Javier Zarracina Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Shahara Ahmed, Dan Austin, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Tobias Gattineau, Jouve India, Asha Ioculari, Alison Lyall, Sophie Marozeau, Katie O'Connell, Trent Paton, Raphael Richards, Averil Robertson, Silvia Rosas, Amanda Sierp, Fiona Siseman, Kerrianne Southway, Gerard Walker, Danny Williams BEHIND THE SCENES 36-behind-the-scenes-mdr7.indd 221 36-behind-the-scenes-mdr7.indd 221 10/01/2013 12:53:40 PM 10/01/2013 12:53:40 PM ? Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it's fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don't upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - 'Do the right thing with our content.' ?Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd